Thursday, November 28, 2013

Two more Vests......

Hello All! First of all I'd like to wish you and your family a wonderful Thanksgiving! Here's 2 of my latest vests I completed for a client. I love working with plaids and stripes! Note how well the stripes match up---even through the collar and single welt pocket. I have a special technique and I look forward to sharing in a future video. I've just received a few more requests for client suits, pants etc so expect more client work posts soon. I can't wait to share:)

Wednesday, November 20, 2013

The Finished Calvary Twill Sports Coat!!!!

I've been done for well over a week, just was trying to carve out some time to tell you about it. Remember the Calvary Twill Sports Coat I started tailoring for my client that I talked about HERE. Well the Sports Coat is complete and went together without a hitch!  And my client was thoroughly pleased with the results. Here are some pictures of the final product.......

Calvary Twill Sports Coat on Mannequin

 Calvary Twill Sports Coat on Hanger

Calvary Twill Sports Coat on Happy Client!

I ALWAYS enjoy tailoring a coat from start to finish. I strive to give my clients the best product. Looks like my work is done here for now (smile)
~Gentleman Jim

Friday, November 15, 2013

Before and After: Coat to Vest Conversion

I love re-purposing old clothing pieces and I love to do it for my clients. Here's one of my recent alterations. A client brought in her Mothers old coat made out of Persian Lamb with Mink sleeves and Mink collar. The coat was getting old and a bit brittle (a common problem of old animal skins) so my client wanted it converted into a vest. I gladly obliged her. So here's the before and after pics. It turned out quite lovely if I do say so myself:)



Here's my client wearing it. She loves it!!!!

Monday, November 11, 2013

Paying Tribute to my Mentor--Part I

Hello Everyone! It's that time of year where I like to really reflect over all the blessings I've had throughout my 69 years! I'm thankful to have a wonderful family, friends and YOU!!!! I'm also blessed that I've had to spend the last 50+ years Tailoring, something I love with all my heart! Well in my reflection I can't help but think of all who helped influence me and get me to where I am in my career today. His name is Orie Walls and he was mentor and friend, dramatically shaping me as a business man and tailor. I write about him in my biography "Across 125th Street" which is the reference to where I worked in Orie's Tailoring shop which was within close proximity to the legendary Apollo theater. During this time I had the privilege of learning how a tailoring business worked and working with famous stars such as James Brown, Jackie Robinson, the Isley Brothers, etc.

(My mentor Orie Walls)

I'd love to share with you the story about Orie and some of my adventures working for him but I will save some of that for the next post. What I want to emphasize is the importance of mentorship. How important it is to pour into the lives of others and to have someone to do the same for you. The implications are life changing!!! I ran across this article that sums it up nicely
 and gives helpful information if anyone is interested in finding or becoming a mentor.

Again, I don't know how my life would've been different if I hadn't met Orie. What I do know is that my life has been rich because of it!!!! So I pay tribute to him this month.

If you're interested in reading my biography I'm running a special for the month. Get an Autographed copy of my autobiography "Across 125th Street: Where the Magic was Real" is on SALE for $15 (plus $4.95d/h) U.S. residents, all others outside the US please email me your address for a Paypal invoice reflecting international shipping rate of $14.50. You'll find it in the PayPal cart on the left. This book chronicles my tailoring adventures in NYC during the 60's and 70's.

Take care and I hope you're having a lovely week!!!

Monday, November 4, 2013

Sale Re-Extension & Sports Coat Progress Pics Part II

I want you guys to know how much I appreciate you! Your requests for my DVD has left me no choice but to extend the sale a little longer. I don't want anyone to miss out! I'll do what I can to make sure each and every one of you get it for the cheapest price available. The 50% off  Basic Alteration DVD sale is extended until Wednesday at midnight! I'm really appreciating all of the great feedback you're giving me. It does my heart so good to know that you find the information really helpful. Thank You!!!!

Also here's more Sports Coat pic updates from the last post. Here's some more photos showing my progress. These are a bit time delayed so I'm just a couple more steps from completion. I'll show you those in a future post......
 (Inner construction. Hymo canvas, interfaced edges, and pockets visible)

(Interfaced edges upclose) 

 (Front jacket pieces edges entirely interfaced)

 (Lining and front facing as separate pieces before being attached to jacket front)

 (Attaching the front facing to the jacket fronts)

 (Padstitching on jacket front)

(Jacket assembled without sleeves)

Again, these are pics from last week. This Sports Coat is near completion. I'll show those pics shortly.
Take Care, Gentleman Jim

Saturday, November 2, 2013

Sports Coat update & Pics/ DVD weekend sale extension

UPDATE 11/3/13: The 50% Off Basic Alteration DVD has been extended AGAIN to Monday at midnight EST. See details below......

Happy November! Where in the world is this year going? Months are passing fast! Well wanted to give you updates on the Calvary Twill Sports Coat that I blogged about HERE. Well between sewing students and the rest of my clients I finally got some time to really devote to it like I wanted. It's progressing quite nicely. Without any interruptions I can put one of these together super FAST! Here's some pics of my progress and the classic tailoring techniques I used.......

 (outer front view---sideways. I added the hymo canvas and it just needs to be cut down after I baste it in.)

(added hymo canvas and padding. Hand stitched the hymo canvas unit to the front of the coat. I interfaced back arm hole edge and hem. You can also see back of welt pocket lining)

(Front back of hymo canvas units I use. I can make these --it was how I was originally trained but I prefer to just buy them)

(Outside front view. I topstitched the besom pocket (most of you know it as well, but it's a besom pocket in the tailoring world) to keep it in tack. You can also see a single welt pocket above the dart near the armhole)

(As a tailor I assemble my coats different then most. Here's the view of the front facing and lining with the exterior sleeve. Notice anything interesting about the sleeve? It has a cuff in it that I've basted down just to keep from shifting while I complete the coat. My client likes this look. I like making custom pieces!)

This coat is coming along great! I just have to finish padstitching the lapel and do a few other things and I'll be ready to connect the interior/exterior pieces of the coat. I'll keep you posted. FYI I plan to do a Tailored Jacket Construction video in the not so distant future. I look forward to bringing you this information so you too can have superbly tailored jackets/coats.

Also, it's been a LONG week. I was a little to lazy to change the price in my Paypal cart so that's a benefit to you. If you're interested in getting my Basic Alteration DVD at 50% off you have until Sunday night Monday Night! Just go to the Paypal tab on the upper left of my blog Enjoy the extension!!! Note: Shipping $4.95 within US and if needed outside the US it's $13.75.

Have a great weekend
~Gentleman Jim